Dry, itchy and flaky skin sends many people looking for a "strong" natural oil. Some oils can genuinely help a dry skin barrier feel more comfortable. Others are less helpful than their reputation suggests, and none of them replaces medical care for eczema or psoriasis.
A quick look at the skin barrier
The outermost layer of skin, the stratum corneum, is often compared to a brick wall. Flattened skin cells are the bricks, and a mixture of lipids, mainly ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids, is the mortar. When that mortar is depleted, water escapes more easily and irritants get in more easily. The result is dryness, tightness and itch. In atopic eczema the barrier is weaker to begin with, which is why moisturising is a cornerstone of treatment.
Not all oils behave the same
Research on adult volunteers has compared oils directly on the skin. In one small but widely cited 2013 study, sunflower seed oil preserved the integrity of the barrier and improved hydration, while olive oil applied regularly made the barrier measurably weaker. The difference is thought to relate partly to fatty acids: olive oil is rich in oleic acid, which can loosen the lipid structure, while sunflower oil is rich in linoleic acid, which the skin uses to build ceramides.
That does not make olive oil dangerous, but it is a good reason not to use it as a daily body oil if your skin is prone to eczema.
Oils and emollients worth knowing
- Sunflower seed oil: linoleic-rich, light, inexpensive. Choose a high-linoleic, cold-pressed or cosmetic grade.
- Coconut oil: some small studies in children with eczema found improvements in dryness when used as a moisturiser, though it can feel heavy and is not suited to everyone.
- Shea butter: a rich occlusive often found in emollient creams.
- Ceramide creams and plain emollients from a pharmacy: often the most reliable option, especially fragrance-free ones.
How to apply for the most benefit
- Bathe or shower in lukewarm water and keep it short.
- Pat the skin almost dry and apply the oil or emollient within a few minutes, while the skin is still slightly damp.
- Use generous amounts and reapply through the day on the driest areas, such as hands.
- Smooth in the direction of hair growth to reduce the chance of irritating hair follicles.
When to see a doctor
See a doctor if skin is cracked, weeping, bleeding or crusted, if itching disturbs sleep, or if moisturising alone does not help after a couple of weeks. Eczema flares often need prescription treatment, and infected eczema needs prompt care. Do not stop prescribed treatments in favour of oils.
Dry skin also travels badly. Long flights, hotel rooms and the dry, cool air of a casino resort can all set off a flare, which is why a small tube of your usual emollient belongs in every weekend bag. Our gentle routine for eczema-prone skin covers daily care at home.
